The calm before the storm view of: Volcano Moyogalpa
A nimals on the Loose
Puerco anyone?
Owl Eye Butterfly
Don't come unprepared: cash/grass/sleeping bag
I could spend a lot of coin listening to this guy,
on the way to Rivas, Nicaragua.
E l Zopilote
Map of Grounds
Ojos De Agua
The refreshing mineral water is heavy in fluidity but leaves skin and spirit moisturized.
M oonlight Showers
E co Tourism Benefits
Finca El Zopilote "Finca" means a land to cultivate "El Zopilote" means the vulture
T ough Way in and out
Explore the shores
P escado Fresco
E centric Vibes
Some travelers say it is a place for hippies to live out there isolated Eco- centric lifestyle. In a sense I see the dimension of space and the no emphasis on time qualities making this a great destination for some who are more intellectually stimulated by nature and not technology. Ometepe is not for the weak but for the strong who can preserve their sanity through the creative areas of their being. One girl couldn't stand it because she had nothing to do but there were some that begged their friends for more time to stay and savor this freedom land.
Say-mu Cham-pey, pronounced with a French accent is how I
said it. It means "where the river
hides beneath the earth."
If you come from Guatemala, Rio Dulce or Tikal, prepare yourself for a long day of travel to get here. Located in the highlands of Alta Verapaz, you head toward
the town of Coban. The environment is foggy and cold in this part of the
country. With an elevation of 4,330 feet, you need heavy wool blankets during
the night.
Two hours away, off a
rocky road is Lanquin. Arriving at dark is a blessing because at some point on the
narrow gravel road you drop 3,000 feet in elevation. Departed from Tikal 18
hours earlier I embrace my comfy bunk bed at the El Retiro Lodge for$7 USD a night.
Other popular hostels in the area include the Zephyr Lodge
and Utopia, but cater to a different crowd.
The sound of water awakes me in the morning. Nearly all the
other bunks lay empty. Arriving on a odd night at a hostel is nice because you
feel like you have the whole dorm to yourself and get to be the confidant for
the incoming backpackers.
I crack open the large wooden door, the lush green
landscape overwhelms my senses. Crunchy green grass separates me from the river thirty feet away. The birds chirp and fly playfully through the
tropical trees.Travelers rest in the colorful patterned hammocks and read books.
El Retiro Lodge definitely has a good thing going especially
after tasting their food. Fresh fruit and crepes in the morning and vegetarian
Thai food buffets for dinner, I wish my stay lasted longer.With fuel in me I head out for a day trip to
the underrated Semuc Champey.
Vamanos!!
Lo siento perrito, no vamos :(
A Toyota Tacoma pulls up with a roll cage apparatus over the
bed, I figure we sit about six. But this is Central America and trucks here
fit triple that amount. With ten in the bed and five in the cab we head off into
the jungle. I distract myself with the scenery and the thoughts of
living in such a secluded area while trying to keep the metal poles from hitting guy ribs.
For 150Q or 20 USD a local guide takes you to
Grutas de Lanquin, a complex system of caves. Only armed with a headlamp and
bathing suit get ready for a swimming, climbing, and cliff jumping all in the
dark.
Then the guide supplies inflatable tubes and takes you on a
short float down the Cahabon River. The adrenaline kicks in as the current
swirls you by large rocks that could give you a natural colonoscopy if you're
careless.At a calmer moment, you get
the chance to look back towards the waterfalls that mark the end of the 300 m
limestone bridge known as Semuc Champey.
It's a steep hike into the jungle to the best mirador
(viewpoint) of my entire trip. Tranquil pools of turquoise to emerald green water cascade into eachother over 1000 feet
distance. The eight distinctive pools are separated by golden karstic soil that
does not cater to bare feet.I could
spend multiple hours on the top of the mountain looking down off this small
platform. As the more people arrived, I decided to start the way down.The trek down was far scarier as
the steps sweat from the moisture in the air creating a slippery surface.
With every beautiful thing comes the danger. At the north
end of the river is "El Sumidero" (the sink), where the river disappears into
the earth. If you were to unfortunately slip into the mouth, you would die
instantly. Intimidated enough I wander towards the pools.Couples, families, locals, and foreigners all
collect around the extraordinary tropical site taking in the rich biodiversity
of nature surrounding them.
As you exit the natural splendor, the more picturesque trail takes you along the "El Manantial"(the spring), where the river reappears with
less velocity.At some point I get lost
because at that moment if I turned into one of the monkeys that play in the
trees above me I would be endlessly happy.But a friend finds me along the way and takes me home.
I highly recommend this excursion, it is the most amazing natural water feature I have seen.
I open my eyes to a greyish light sky. The buzzing and chatter
from the nocturnal animals quieted. I look out off my wooden balcony. I could not wait to get my day started.
Roadside snack
I would catch the Fuente Del Nortebus to Tikal National Park. Four hours until reaching the town of Santa
Elena. The man sitting next to me looked like he had just left the ranch. Dusty cowboy boots and a cowboy hat to shade his face that was separated by a dark bushy mustache. He bought me orange soda and candy from one of our pit stops. I tried to converse in Spanish. He was very patient with me.
Curious Pig
The roadside towns we drove through had
vast, plentiful farmlands behind them.Women and children carry goods on their cabezas and outfitted in the
traditional Guatemalan dress. Rojo y morado color their long faldas with laced blouses in dark tones. The men wear urban attire- '90s clothing brand
labels pasted across the chest of the t-shirt.
Large home near road in El Peten region of Guatemala
As we pull into the horizontal city of Santa
Elena, the peddlers swarm the bus trying to sell foreigners overpriced tickets
to their next destination. Santa Elena reminds me of desert towns in Arizona, a
place where if you were not a local, you would stand out like a sore thumb. I
quickly find return transportation who is willing to take me to Tikal National Park that day, very hard to find after 2pm.
Google Map of Tikal National Park, Great Plaza in the center, Temple V at far left
Tikal National Park
I make to the ruins right before sunset. The crowds are
gone. This was going to be my most bold move yet. I decided to stay on the
grounds alone in a hammock for the night.Sleeping on the same soil that Mayan Indians slept on.
North Acropolis in the Great Plaza
Mayan Altar in Great Plaza ball court
Engravings at Tikal entrance
If outside
sleeping is not your thing, a few well-fitted inns are near, but fill up
fast. Tikal Inn, Jungle Lodge, and Jaguar Inn
Tikal National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, accommodating one of
the largest Mayan civilizations in the world.This capital was one of the most powerful kingdoms in the ancient Mayan
world. If a spanish conquistador didn't know the exact location he might miss the deep
hidden temples in the thick rainforest of Guatemala. Entry
150Q/ $19
Temple V
View of North Acropolis from top of Temple II
Before you can
wear yourself out climbing heights up to 212 feet, you must trek nearly a mile
into the jungle to get a good glimpse.Built of limestone, the site has 6 temples, three I successfully climbed.
The Great Plaza homes Temple I and II. Approachable from the
back, you can climb to have the other in the background for a photo. The
darkness encircling the ball court starts to awaken the howlers of monkeys. I
creep around with my headlamp, investigating each site before losing complete
orientation in the moist blackness ahead of me.
Side View of Temple I
Inside Lost World "Mundo Perdido" in the dark
My favorite area was called Mundo Perdido,
"Lost World", the magical grip of this place is interrupted as bats
run out of the enclave of one structure. Lost World is arranged in a
harmonious form with the observation of the stars, including the cycles of
Venus and the Sun.
Temple I
Mayans really dedicated their lives to ressurrect this
amazing civilization. It was an honor to run amongst their spirits. I started to
tire out as the swampy mud caked my boots.I find a couple from Brazil when I get back to my hammock. We entertain each other with travel stories over some pasta.
Nearly 4 a.m. as I try not to fumble out of the hammock. I navigate my way towards Temple IV, the tallest. I climb to
the top to watch the sunrise.
Temple I
It was a great moment of reflection. Here I was
in the middle of the Guatemalan rainforest sitting on one of the tallest Mayan
temples waiting for the sun to rise. It sounds pretty damn cool if you ask me. Sunrise (Amanecer) Tour 100Q/$12
