Tikal National Park: Discover it in the Dark

Route from Rio Dulce to Santa Elena 

I open my eyes to a greyish light sky. The buzzing and chatter from the nocturnal animals quieted. I look out off my wooden balcony. I could not wait to get my day started.

Roadside snack

I would catch the Fuente Del Norte bus to Tikal National Park.  Four hours until reaching the town of Santa Elena. The man sitting next to me looked like he had just left the ranch. Dusty cowboy boots and a cowboy hat to shade his face that was separated by a dark bushy mustache. He bought me orange soda and candy from one of our pit stops. I tried to converse in Spanish. He was very patient with me. 

Curious Pig

The roadside towns we drove through had vast, plentiful farmlands behind them. Women and children carry goods on their cabezas and outfitted in the traditional Guatemalan dress. Rojo y morado color their long faldas with laced blouses in dark tones. The men wear urban attire- '90s clothing brand labels pasted across the chest of the t-shirt.

Large home near road in El Peten region of Guatemala

As we pull into the  horizontal city of Santa Elena, the peddlers swarm the bus trying to sell foreigners overpriced tickets to their next destination. Santa Elena reminds me of desert towns in Arizona, a place where if you were not a local, you would stand out like a sore thumb. I quickly find return transportation who is willing to take me to Tikal National Park that day, very hard to find after 2pm.

 

Google Map of Tikal National Park, Great Plaza in the center, Temple V at far left 

Tikal National Park 

I make to the ruins right before sunset. The crowds are gone. This was going to be my most bold move yet. I decided to stay on the grounds alone in a hammock for the night.  Sleeping on the same soil that Mayan Indians slept on. 

North Acropolis in the Great Plaza 

Mayan Altar in Great Plaza ball court

Engravings at Tikal entrance 

If outside sleeping is not your thing, a few well-fitted inns are near, but fill up fast. Tikal Inn, Jungle Lodge, and Jaguar Inn

Tikal National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, accommodating one of the largest Mayan civilizations in the world.  This capital was one of the most powerful kingdoms in the ancient Mayan world. If a spanish conquistador didn't know the exact location he might miss the deep hidden temples in the thick rainforest of Guatemala.  Entry 150Q/ $19

Temple V

View of North Acropolis from top of Temple II

Before you can wear yourself out climbing heights up to 212 feet, you must trek nearly a mile into the jungle to get a good glimpse. Built of limestone, the site has 6 temples, three I successfully climbed.  

The Great Plaza homes Temple I and II. Approachable from the back, you can climb to have the other in the background for a photo. The darkness encircling the ball court starts to awaken the howlers of monkeys. I creep around with my headlamp, investigating each site before losing complete orientation in the moist blackness ahead of me.

Side View of Temple I 

Inside Lost World "Mundo Perdido" in the dark

My favorite area was called Mundo Perdido, "Lost World", the magical grip of this place is interrupted as bats run out of the enclave of one structure. Lost World is arranged in a harmonious form with the observation of the stars, including the cycles of Venus and the Sun.

Temple I

Mayans really dedicated their lives to ressurrect this amazing civilization. It was an honor to run amongst their spirits. I started to tire out as the swampy mud caked my boots. I find a couple from Brazil when I get back to my hammock. We entertain each other with travel stories over some pasta. 

Nearly 4 a.m. as I try not to fumble out of the hammock. I navigate my way towards Temple IV, the tallest. I climb to the top to watch the sunrise. 

Temple I

It was a great moment of reflection. Here I was in the middle of the Guatemalan rainforest sitting on one of the tallest Mayan temples waiting for the sun to rise. It sounds pretty damn cool if you ask me. Sunrise (Amanecer) Tour 100Q/$12