Gone Bananas in Koh Pha Ngan



Last time I rode an elephant I was seven years old. It was at some fair in California. It was time to jump back in the saddle. Two British girls and me climbed up to a platform. The limber Thai man sat on the nape of the charcoal colored elephant.

With every step I could hear my heartbeat get LOUDER. I try to make my moves quick on its massive backside.


15 minutes into the ride my excitement dissapates. Watching the other elephants slug around as my friends nervously hang on did not look all that fun. Elephant shit is all I see when I look down.




I had enough and couldn't wait to get off. This guilty feeling of participating in Thailand's tourism economy of exploiting animals and natural resources had been born.

It was fulfilled again when we were escorted to the monkey area. They anxiously wait on chain leashes. The pregnant one sits calmly and stares at you with these "save me" eyes. The younger ones were going bananas. The owners warn us to be careful because they were known to nip. That is only natural since they have to stay on a leash and stare at the rainforest where they could run and be free. SMH. All I wanted now was a beer to forget all that.

Pregnant Monkey with the SAVE ME eyes

Dinner was on the sand. After we set off Chinese lanterns and watched them disappear into the night sky. The intimacy of fire while standing in water in a tropical place surrounded by friends you just met is an experience.



The last night on the infamous party island Koh Pha Ngan was finished off the party that brought me to this country. Full Moon Party is a carny of tricks and treats.

First the chaos in front of you takes you over. A sea of rainbow blankets the beach as the tie-dye and neon outfits take fashion. You see people as creatures with the glow and dark paint covering any skin.

The bars- back to back as bucket after bucket of tropical concoction is served. Fireballs shoot into the sky. Music revs up. The atmosphere is perfect for a party.

For me, the party was over after I left the animals earlier. I needed to get off this island. Thailand "Land of the Free" a concept that has a dark side too.  Free to do and treat anything the way you want to.

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