Gone Bananas in Koh Pha Ngan

Last time I rode an elephant I was seven years old. It was at some fair in California. It was time to jump back in the saddle. Two British girls and me climbed up to a platform. The limber Thai man sat on the nape of the charcoal colored elephant.

With every step I could hear my heartbeat get LOUDER. I try to make my moves quick on its massive backside.

15 minutes into the ride my excitement dissapates. Watching the other elephants slug around as my friends nervously hang on did not look all that fun. Elephant shit is all I see when I look down.

I had enough and couldn't wait to get off. This guilty feeling of participating in Thailand's tourism economy of exploiting animals and natural resources had been born.

It was fulfilled again when we were escorted to the monkey area. They anxiously wait on chain leashes. The pregnant one sits calmly and stares at you with these "save me" eyes. The younger ones were going bananas. The owners warn us to be careful because they were known to nip. That is only natural since they have to stay on a leash and stare at the rainforest where they could run and be free. SMH. All I wanted now was a beer to forget all that.

Pregnant Monkey with the SAVE ME eyes

Dinner was on the sand. After we set off Chinese lanterns and watched them disappear into the night sky. The intimacy of fire while standing in water in a tropical place surrounded by friends you just met is an experience.

The last night on the infamous party island Koh Pha Ngan was finished off the party that brought me to this country. Full Moon Party is a carny of tricks and treats.

First the chaos in front of you takes you over. A sea of rainbow blankets the beach as the tie-dye and neon outfits take fashion. You see people as creatures with the glow and dark paint covering any skin.

The bars- back to back as bucket after bucket of tropical concoction is served. Fireballs shoot into the sky. Music revs up. The atmosphere is perfect for a party.

For me, the party was over after I left the animals earlier. I needed to get off this island. Thailand "Land of the Free" a concept that has a dark side too.  Free to do and treat anything the way you want to.

Party Scene on Koh Pha Ngan

 On the western edge of the Gulf of Thailand sits the port of Surat Thani. I stand dazed in line waiting for a ferry in a black top parking lot. 

We are headed off to the islands of Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao. I had little idea of what I was in store for. The sleepy sea and sky make little noise as passengers scramble for any piece of shade. Clouds hold still as the sweat continues to drip down my back.

Islands sprinkle the sea like cereal in a giant bowl of milk.  As we approached Koh Pha Ngan, a sandy atoll with the iconic white stone cliffs of Thailand sparks the excitement of landing. Young travelers wander the shores, as the sun reflects off the divers scattered in the shallow water. 

True teal water against tropical rainforest with white sandy beaches. Thailand is a mystical place.The roads are thin. Snuggled against the shore is hotel after hotel. Farther inland small thatched roof houses and restaurants stack on top of each other. 

MOTORCYLCES FOR RENT. GET A TATTOO HERE. FULL MOON PARTY. JUNGLE PARTY. ELEPHANT TREKS. BOOZE BUCKETS. THAI MASSAGES

If you are into any of this- Koh Pha Ngan is the place you are looking for. 

The first night my buddy Eric, also an American college student, and I dominated the beer pong tournament against 18 teams from all over the world. The variety of nationalities included: German, Scandinavian and European. It felt like the Olympics as the restaurant cheered for their favorite teams. Eric took down most of the cups but I came in handy by making the lonely last cups that required a lot of aim and a little luck. 

Our prize was made up of: 'Same Same' (means girly man) shirt, two buckets with hard alcohol and energy drinks, which is like 10x stronger than those back in the US.

 

Final 2 Teams

CHAMPS

It was time to celebrate out victory down at the beach. The wild ones run towards the giant jump rope, but now two men round up the rope into a bucket of gasoline. After a short soak they bring it back to a wooden stage and lit it on fire. The heat overwhelms your space and the essence of danger ignites within. Are you brave enough to jump in? I tried and let's just say woke up with the biggest bruise on my thigh.

Maybe the foam pit dance floor is more my thing. Everyone seems to lose all control as we dance for hours, maybe it's the Chang. Chang, the cheaper option of Thai beer, has energy stimulant ingredients. It didn't help one girl in my tour group though. I came up on her comotosed in the sand. It was time to call it a night as we all found out way back to our hostel.  

The next day hungover we hopped on a ponga boat named Snoop Dogg for some island exploration. Phu Dang Waterfall was the first attraction. There is a cave within you have to swim underwater to get to. Then you start crawling towards the white pencil tip light above you. Grasping at whatever I can in this black hole, I think "what the hell am I doing?" 

Those words seemed to reoccur throughout my time in Thailand. 

The second stop was at a secluded beach for some lunch. I spent the day swimming in the salty waters where you could float like a empty plastic bottle. 

 

Reggae Bar

The sun started to set as we came back to port. This night we decided on visiting the magical Reggae Bar. Lit by glow in the dark writing on the walls and the few candles, this bar was my favorite in Thailand. The soothing sound of Bob Marley's voice was needed after a techno fueled fiesta from the previous night.

Foam Party on the beach!!