Doing it like Snæbjörn: Farm living in Iceland

Looking back at Vik from the beach

Frank pondering in Vik

A posse of dogs greeted our Suburu when we pulled up to farm Önundarhorn. The house was deceiving in size with the herd of horses gathered around the perimeter. After roaming around the property, we were greeted by a sweet young woman who was the ranch hand for Snæ. Before we relaxed for a night of stories from Snæ, I had to help (asked to help) them wrangle the horses up for the night. 

As the light faded from the sky, four more travelers, from Germany & the States, showed up to stay here too. Snæ said in the summertime his 3 out of 5 of the rooms are booked for months. The other two are for him and his volunteers. Iceland's tourism has mushroomed in the last 5 years and infrastructure is still trying to catch up with the demand. 

Sane getting the horse rounded up 

A lot of homeowners are able to profit right now by opening their doors since the building process for larger hotels & properties takes time with permit processing and funding needs. On our evening walk, one of Snæ's neighbors was in the middle of constructing a 10-room property which was costing nearly $7 million to build. 

Earlier in the day, we spent time in the coastal village of Vik. The population rounds out to around 400. It is one of the keystone places for tourism in Iceland, with black sand beaches, small town charm, and tasty seafood. A very windy and wet town which requires a certain level of grit from its residents. Many have been reported to drown in this area from the rough seas that consistently pound into the basalt rock cliffs.

Back at Snæ's spot, we spent our last night in Iceland sitting in his living room listening to his stories of growing up as one of the best street fighters in the country. From the look in his eyes and the size of his fists, I was pretty convinced he was telling the truth. My father and him ended up staying up and watching movies together. A new pair of friends made halfway across the world. For me it's not the place that makes a trip unforgettable but the people and friendships you create.

Window above my bed

No Hot Pool Left Behind

Years ago I stumbled upon a photo that captured a pool secluded and sitting in a green valley with snow covered mountains. I wanted to see this for myself. I promised myself that I would visit Seljavallalaug Pool in Iceland. Later I learned it is the oldest swimming pool in the country and located under Eyjafjnallajokull Volcano.

 

I figured out the pool was a 10 minute drive from our last Airbnb. Snae, our host, warned us of floats in the water but I assured him I was use to swimming in some dirty ponds and marinas.

As simple as the directions were, I had a hard time figuring out where it was which was torture for my dad in the passenger seat. It wasn't until I was at the end of the wrong road that we came upon a sign that told us "Turn around for the waterfall". After a short flat hike, we arrived at the pool. 


The water was dark and the heat was un-even throughout the pool. But I didn't notice because my heart was exploding with love for the waterfalls in the distance and the sound of river just feet away. We enjoyed periods of solitude as the small trios of people trickled in and out.

That day I got to replace a vision with a memory.

Our second day in Iceland, we visited The Blue Lagoon. It's one of the must-dos for many. We earned some hot pool time after a day driving in the car to Gullfoss and Geysir. The Blue Lagoon is located in a remote area of the highway towards Keflavik Airport. If all you see is volcanic rock for miles then it's a sure sign you're close. 

Blah Lonio in Icelandic, is a geothermal spa heated from 99-102 degrees fareniheit. The water has high mineral contents to the likes as sulfur and silica. A man-made attraction, the water is powered by a nearby geothermal plant which is replenishes the spa with new water every couple days as the super heated water from the volcanic vents underneath the ground rises. 

We had fun as we slopping algae masks on each other and sipping on our alcoholic beverages. There were options to experience steam rooms and a sauna hut. I tried the latter and found myself in the presence of a man meditating which was super impressive given the fact I couldn't last longer than saying my ABCs. 

Overall the facility was impeccable. From the swim up bar to the full service locker rooms and extensive space to swim, I can see what it's a HOT spot. 

The day after the half-marathon, I tried out the local pools of Reykjavik. Laugardalslaug which are the largest and most extensive offerings with a 50m outdoor pool, two waterslides, numerous hot tubs and steam bath. Yes, I went down the waterslide! They have a line up of hot pools which ranged in temperatures and the one on the end was filled with water pumped from the bay.

Photo by @yanga_code

If you're looking to have a swim in Iceland there will be plenty of places to do it. Icelandic locals say this is a regular thing for them. It is good for their health and a good way to socialize. A watering hole of a different kind that I like. 

The Reykjavick Experiene

Hallgrimskirkja, parish church, designed by
Gudjon Samulsson

The day arrived I had to run 13.1 miles in a city that I just started to explore. I was still jet-lag from the 5 hour flight and 4 hour time difference. The morning temperature was mild in Reykjavik, Iceland. I regretted wearing long pants and long sleeves... so I ditched it in a tree and hoped it would be there later. 



While I walked through town, it was quiet for a race that had over 15,000 people running in it. Large compared to 214 it had in its inaugural year of 1984. I was alone in most populous area of Iceland. But soon I turned to corner and saw a river of runners.


On the route families came out to bang on pots and pans. 
The event slogan "come on in", an old fashion custom to hospitality, really came out when I saw a gentleman serenading us runners with his saxophone. Well done sir. 



After 18KM, I was ready to reel this body in as fast as I could. Time for me to stop staring at the seaside views and kick butt to the finish.


Once I completed the race, the largest cultural festival of the city began. Stages were set-up across the city. You followed the sound of music and enjoyed a different part of the town you had not see yet. The crowds were cordial. The Viking Bread for 20 Krona and the heavy metal band were my favorites. 

On the other side of town, an area called Old Harbor, we enjoyed a fish dinner. The fish was extra special for my pops and I since we are both vegetarians. However we like to treat ourselves when near the coast. Some of the restaurants serve whale but we politely declined to try it after enjoying a whale-watching tour. 
We saw a Humpback and Minke whale along with a porpoise.

The cold breeze was picking up and my leg muscles were not so happy. On the trek back to our Airbnb, we stopped to get Americanos at a Jamaican coffee joint and see if we could muster up any energy for the firework show at 11pm. It didn't happen but I loved what I experienced of Culture Night. Reykjavik has the charm of a novel setting while maintaining the trendy vibe like the idea of a young senator. 

Chasing Waterfalls in Iceland

Have you ever watched a waterfall in slow motion? Focus your eyes where the river meets the edge of the cliff. Look for the individual droplets as they separate & jump out. It's as if they look forward to this moment all their life. A few moments of freedom.

That's why it is white at this part. It takes less light to penetrate through. Just like the Icelandic icebergs and glaciers, the more blue hue you see means higher pressure. Like when people are piling on top of you- What happens? You turn blue. I'll continue more on the blue effect in another blog post.

The beauty of Iceland's waterfalls are all so unique. Surely one of the favorite sights among tourists. People will risk a rocky road that could possibly damage their rental car just to get a eyeful of falling water. 


There is Gullfoss (golden falls), my dad's favorite, which was the largest we saw. With two cascading areas, the Hvita River sinks over a set of banks, then tapers to the right before the second dive. From where we stood a rainbow appeared over blossomed dandelions. Its roar clears out the thoughts in my head as I stand fixated on each drop of water jumping for joy. I pretended to hear it scream, happily of course. A nudge and a "are you alright" from my dad brings me out of it. 




A few days later, we drove farther into the southern region of Iceland where there are more sheep than people. This waterfall sits in Vatnajokull National Park, which is home to the largest icecap in Iceland. 
Vatna means water and Jokull means glacier in Icelandic. Learning the meanings behind the words in Iceland is also a great conversation with locals. 

Once you arrive to the National Park, you hike progressively steep trail 30 minutes until you meet Svartifoss. You can enjoy this one with lighter crowds. The overhanging dark rocks pattern reminded me of pants hanging to dry. If I had to guess the meaning, I would say Svarti means Artsy. But it is really means black. 

When driving back to Reykjavik from the beach community of Vik you will find Skogafoss (forests falls) It is 60 meters tall and 25 meters wide, like two basketball courts stacked on top of each other.  The water pressure is not so delicate like Svartifoss or Seljalandsfoss. I suggest wearing a rain coat if you want to try to touch the rainbow that sits at its pool. 

Not only are the foss great to watch but so are the viewpoints at the top. The sun shined off the river as it snaked down to the sea. This is where the saying about Iceland and Greenland comes out because Iceland is truly a green land. The type of green that smells like dewey grass and reminds me of soccer season and my dad of football season. 

Like a billboard on the freeway in America, we pulled over to see Selsjalandsfoss on our last day in Iceland. Iceland doesn't have billboards by the way, Wooaah! I couldn't find the meaning of this one but someone wrote that it means seller, which is fitting. 

Seljalandsfoss was the most entertaining waterfall because we hiked behind it. Behind the see through the water as it sheared into the rocky pool below, I wonder had any local swam through it. It would take a strong person mentally and physically to not only survive that but also live in Iceland. For a place with strong wind, steadily melting glaciers, and a slow pace, at least it has some beautiful waterfalls to make you feel like everything is ok.