1 das bierzelt, 2 das bierzelt, 3 das bierzelt ... My Oktoberfest Experience

It was a chill September day and our last full day on our 7 day adventure from Amsterdam to Munich. We decided to check out the Oktoberfest. Local guides urge you to arrive early as in the past many Brewery tents fill up by early afternoon so we headed out around 10 am. Each "das bierzelt", building according to my father, is headed by one of Germany's own breweries. My perspective before going was that all the action took place inside as you gargled back the contents in your oversized mug.

Outside the das bierzelt, there were gardens lining NYC avenue wide walkways along with a fair - full of rides for families to enjoy. Ones that will spin your full bellies over or drop you from 100 feet in the air. Not only could I hear the excitement in the hoots, howlers and songs coming from the crowds but saw the genuine enthusiam in the lederhose & drindl outfits.  It was a true cultural event where you saw the reverence of community in German heritage.

Germans are pretty progressive when it comes to sustainable policy in politics and the environment so I shouldn't be surprised that they would be in their cuisine. The tents had a slew of offerings outside the traditional brats and sauerkraut. We enjoyed a beet salad and spinach, pretzel & cheese dumplings that softened and melted on my tongue.

  

But as delicious as the food was, equally was the "bier". First stop was Spaten tent where the atmosphere was sober and friendly as it was still early and most were enjoying their first steins of the day. Pay as you go system so you're free to wander about as you play. The first lesson of the day as you sit down at a XL picnic table is to scoot in towards your new neighbor- another display of Germans efficiency with space.

We enjoyed the beauty inside with curtains hanging but we were itch'in to see more so we left to explore. We walked over to the HB "Hofbräu" tent where the more party crowd reside. Mostly standing tent, even on the tables to show your chugging skills off. First you were cheered if you finish a stein under 10 seconds but past that you would begin to hear the boo's. I didn't dare to jump up on the wood surface.

3 steins in, I could feel the alcohol starting to affect my body as a wave of light headness hit. Needed some fresh air quick, so we exited. German's efficiency was again spotted in the clean spacious bathrooms where no line for waiting was formed. 

We entered our last tent "Paulaner Brewery", we found a couple open spots at a table filled with non-Germans. After many selfies, songs sang and our last rounds of "prost", I was ready for a warm bed.

The 184th Oktoberfest was one of the most organized and entertaining cultural events I have ever experienced. If I could go again, I would dress up in a Drindl. My pops says if he can do it again one day he would, "allow more time to prepare and more time to recover. Stay in Munich longer." 

Mosey through Rhineland

Leaving the breezy canals of Amsterdam, my pops and I boarded a train to Germany. We had two days set aside to explore the Rhine Valley. I went in with a little expectation of a scenery similar to the The Sound of Music movie with Julie Andrews and the song of "Do Re Mi" replaying in my head as I walked through the small cobblestone streets of Zeltingen-Rachtig and Bernkastel-Kues. I come to find out that movie was shot in Austria. 

After our transfer in Bonn, I enjoyed watching the soft edges of the Rhine curve through steep river valley. At times a castle in the hillside side would come into view. Fun fact from Lonely Planet, some 65 km of riverscape along the Rhine was designated a world heritage site by UNESCO in 2002. If I could name a color of a crayon after this region it would be Pristine Green.

We planned to go a little off the tracks and 'venture further into the country side - first, wine country of Zeltingen-Rachtig. Located off the Moselle River, one of the larger tributaries of the Rhine, it holds recognition of producing some of the best white wines in the world, specifically their Riesling. A recognition our host at Weinvilla Heinrichshof shared as soon as we arrived. Irmi did a fine job in record time of 10 minutes, getting me buzzed off her family's selection. 

Weinvilla Heinrichshof Airbnb

Later, the dinner we had that night was like receiving a Christmas miracle. As vegetarians, we knew coming to Germany might be tough, as they love their meat and dairy. We even ran into a man who said "Germans look at vegetarians like they have a disease and need meat to cure them" - LOL! So when Irmi said there was a vegan restaurant a short walk away, we were quite surprised.

Along our walk, I was enchanted by the cozy rustic homes surrounded by bright colorful flowers and luscious vines. We stepped into the hotel where Die Weinstube Restaurant is. Through the wooden doors into a fancy medieval dining room, type of place where you might feel underdressed. The waitress was primarily a German speaker but we made it work and ended up ordering a 4 course meal.

This was the second time in our trip that I felt like this was going to be a very special experience. And it was, we had the most exquisite vegan food in our lives. Soup served on a heart plate, the main course revealed under silver tops, and desert that looked like something from Top Chef. I even ordered more dessert and then we met the Chef, who gave us some juicy gossip about a commercial James Cameron is filming with the Terminator Arnold Schwarzenegger on making the transition to to a diet with less meat and promoting its benefits. (And I found it for you to enjoy!)

The next day we drove 12 minutes away to a 17th century preserved town of Bernkastel-Kues. Timber frame tall houses snuggled along the skinny cobble stone streets. After a strut through the marketplaces that had quickly filled up with tourists, I grabbed a croissant and coffee and we escaped the crowds to impromptu $20 person boat ride on the Moselle River.

Soon we were back on the road headed towards The Black Forest. We had to drive through France for 20 minutes to reach Seebach. The road that snaked through a small valley and the smell of fresh forest trees hit you. The temperature dropped 10 degrees and you could see smoke rising from the scattered village chimneys. 



We booked a room at the Pension Williams, great find on Airbnb, that is run by David and Angela. They were friendly hosts who helped me find good walking trails in the area and gave me a good laugh when I was in their presence. 

The walking trails in the area would run alongside streams, farmhouses, and religious altars. "On many of the walks you will find locally distilled schnapps chilling in the water troughs – there are glasses for you to use and you put your money in the box provided,"as David mentioned before sending me out. I didn't see any on my route but I was taken by an altar for the Virgin Mary. She was shaped out of stone and surrounded by flowers. It's a local story that a few intoxicated residents were hanging out, when the spirit of the Virgin visited them. It was decided to create an altar for her in that spot, a sanctuary for you to come and pray. 

Germany's river valley revived my body and spirit. Having come from New York and Amsterdam, those two days in nature were such an essential time to recharge. There is such a pristine and pure energy in this area, I feel extra grateful for all gifts received on this leg of our trip.