Mosey through Rhineland

Leaving the breezy canals of Amsterdam, my pops and I boarded a train to Germany. We had two days set aside to explore the Rhine Valley. I went in with a little expectation of a scenery similar to the The Sound of Music movie with Julie Andrews and the song of "Do Re Mi" replaying in my head as I walked through the small cobblestone streets of Zeltingen-Rachtig and Bernkastel-Kues. I come to find out that movie was shot in Austria. 

After our transfer in Bonn, I enjoyed watching the soft edges of the Rhine curve through steep river valley. At times a castle in the hillside side would come into view. Fun fact from Lonely Planet, some 65 km of riverscape along the Rhine was designated a world heritage site by UNESCO in 2002. If I could name a color of a crayon after this region it would be Pristine Green.

We planned to go a little off the tracks and 'venture further into the country side - first, wine country of Zeltingen-Rachtig. Located off the Moselle River, one of the larger tributaries of the Rhine, it holds recognition of producing some of the best white wines in the world, specifically their Riesling. A recognition our host at Weinvilla Heinrichshof shared as soon as we arrived. Irmi did a fine job in record time of 10 minutes, getting me buzzed off her family's selection. 

Weinvilla Heinrichshof Airbnb

Later, the dinner we had that night was like receiving a Christmas miracle. As vegetarians, we knew coming to Germany might be tough, as they love their meat and dairy. We even ran into a man who said "Germans look at vegetarians like they have a disease and need meat to cure them" - LOL! So when Irmi said there was a vegan restaurant a short walk away, we were quite surprised.

Along our walk, I was enchanted by the cozy rustic homes surrounded by bright colorful flowers and luscious vines. We stepped into the hotel where Die Weinstube Restaurant is. Through the wooden doors into a fancy medieval dining room, type of place where you might feel underdressed. The waitress was primarily a German speaker but we made it work and ended up ordering a 4 course meal.

This was the second time in our trip that I felt like this was going to be a very special experience. And it was, we had the most exquisite vegan food in our lives. Soup served on a heart plate, the main course revealed under silver tops, and desert that looked like something from Top Chef. I even ordered more dessert and then we met the Chef, who gave us some juicy gossip about a commercial James Cameron is filming with the Terminator Arnold Schwarzenegger on making the transition to to a diet with less meat and promoting its benefits. (And I found it for you to enjoy!)

The next day we drove 12 minutes away to a 17th century preserved town of Bernkastel-Kues. Timber frame tall houses snuggled along the skinny cobble stone streets. After a strut through the marketplaces that had quickly filled up with tourists, I grabbed a croissant and coffee and we escaped the crowds to impromptu $20 person boat ride on the Moselle River.

Soon we were back on the road headed towards The Black Forest. We had to drive through France for 20 minutes to reach Seebach. The road that snaked through a small valley and the smell of fresh forest trees hit you. The temperature dropped 10 degrees and you could see smoke rising from the scattered village chimneys. 



We booked a room at the Pension Williams, great find on Airbnb, that is run by David and Angela. They were friendly hosts who helped me find good walking trails in the area and gave me a good laugh when I was in their presence. 

The walking trails in the area would run alongside streams, farmhouses, and religious altars. "On many of the walks you will find locally distilled schnapps chilling in the water troughs – there are glasses for you to use and you put your money in the box provided,"as David mentioned before sending me out. I didn't see any on my route but I was taken by an altar for the Virgin Mary. She was shaped out of stone and surrounded by flowers. It's a local story that a few intoxicated residents were hanging out, when the spirit of the Virgin visited them. It was decided to create an altar for her in that spot, a sanctuary for you to come and pray. 

Germany's river valley revived my body and spirit. Having come from New York and Amsterdam, those two days in nature were such an essential time to recharge. There is such a pristine and pure energy in this area, I feel extra grateful for all gifts received on this leg of our trip.