The Heart and Surf of El Salvador

It was 2014 and I was still in Antigua, Guatemala. Something did not feel right though- a large  rumble of pain echoed from my stomach. It was Montezuma's Revenge! I would not let it stop me the adventure had to go on. I got on a shuttle to visit Lake Atitlan. 

Lake Atitlan's tranquil topography can be a real trip, crowds of "hippies" head there for yoga retreats and complete solitude, like in San Marcos.  On the opposite side of the lake, San Pedro's village buzzes with people flowing in and out of the bars and restaurants. 

 

Sometime on my trek I ended up in the backyard of three families living in the same house.  The children posed for pictures with their cousins when they saw my camera. 

The lake looked amazing but the rocky shore kept me away. And with that we headed back to Antigua- I had to catch a bus to El Salvador in the morning.  

Village of San Pedro from the boat

Christina from NYC headed to north Guatemala, while Werner, Vassileios, and I headed south to El Salvador. I talked them into the trip- promising good surf and beaches. The bus to La Libertad, El Salvador from Antigua via La Hachadura border crossing only goes once a week.  Time was on our side.

El Salvador is so small that they say you can drive through it in one day. Days before we arrived the Chaparrastique volcano erupted.  I would pass it on my way to Nicaragua in a few days.  It took about 6 hours to reach our destination Playa El Zonte.

A quiet village with black sand and a rocky point break, El Zonte caters to the those willing to journey into the wild. Cheap fish and beer to keep you full all night. You sleep among the iguanas and chickens in hammocks. 

We stayed at the two main hostels: Horizontes, offering a more laxed vibe fore families. Esencia Nativa is home to local surfer/owner Alex.

Nearby the El Sunzal break is a little more spread out for all surfers. Still recovering I swam in the warm ocean and practiced yoga.  After a good night rest it was an El Salvadorian breakfast next.

frijoles, huevos, crema, queso, avo y jugo de naranja

Werner and I left Vassileios in El Zonte. The next stop was El Cuco to stay at the infamous El Tortuga Verde (The Green Turtle) hostel, which sits at the very end of Playa El Esteron (3 hour truck ride). 

Chaparrastique volcano that just blew Dec. 30, 2014

Owner Tom Pollak does a great job preserving the natural habitats of animals in the area. He helps the turtles make it to the sea after hatching. While I was there he rehabilitated two injured birds.

There I met a crew preparing for "Burning Turtle" celebrations. It was a group of friends who met at burning man like 10 years ago and now were meeting in El Salvador to share each other's company. Headed by Dallas and Harry they were so welcoming and we partied well into the morning. 

The best part was when we all surfed at sunset. The waves were perfect!!! Nicaragua came too fast. I could have spent a month on the shores of El Salvador.