Nicaragua's Hangouts: Leon and Granada

Bell tower at La Merced Church in Granada

I was not sure on what Nicaragua was going to be like? Some travelers boasted about the party scene in San Juan del Sur, city near the border by Costa Rica.

  

Lion in front of the Cathedral- How I
feel after a 8 hour shuttle ride!

It was not that kind of trip for me though.  After hacking it through El Salvador in 5 days- I needed to find some place to lay low for a few days.

From El Cuco, El Salvador to Leon- you are looking at 8 hours of driving. There is a boat transfer but that is once a week and costs double.

Nicaragua gained its independence from Spain in 1821. Through 1960's- '70's the country went through major revolution.

The vibe of the cities felt like Mexico, very built up with lots of schools. More uniforms and suits versus cultural clothing like in Guatemala. In Leon, there was a construction site on every street- a sign of constant improvements being made to the infrastructure. 

First breakfast in Leon- fancy breakfast burrito

I somehow met a group of lads at the cathedral. Before entering though it was completely empty and noticed heads coming from the basement. Truth is this cathedral also holds graves in the basement of Nicaragua's finest poet, Ruben Dario and prominent clergy.

The oldest and largest cathedral in Central America located in Leon, Nicaragua

Main alter in Cathedral of Leon

The five of us thought we had gotten lost in a corridor but then met a man who pointed us to the ground's corner. It was a skinny staircase to the roof. The Cathedral of Leon tour was very quite and had a "go where you like" vibe. The next day was the complete opposite.

Julia and I took on an intensive yoga class before wandering into the Museum of the Revolution. 10 men sit outside, dressed nice while politely heckling us in to learn about their country's history. How could we say no?

First, the retired Sandanista solider gives you a history lesson in Spanglish of 50 years of history that is so layered but the pictures on the wall bring some level of clarity. 

Top men are 'Che' Guevara, Fidel Castro, and Camilo Cienfuegos
All key leaders in the Cuban Revelution

It all started in the early 1930's when the Somoza family ruled the county like a military dictatorship. Corruption was no longer admissible when a massive earthquake hit the country in 1972. The Somoza family siphoned the relief aid, leaving the majority of Nicaragua in the dark. With nothing to lose, the symbolic fire in the villages burned with rebellion.

Sandanista Revelutionaries

As the Somoza's family bank account rose to almost half a billion dollars, so did the fight in the Sandinista Revolutionaries.  The photos were real, with civilians as soldiers fighting.  Murals of Che of Cuba are painted throughout the city and even state of Nicaragua.

As you walk up the grand staircase, still in shambles as if nothing has been moved since the 1980's.  It was a sobering rooftop tour compared to the day before.

Leon feels like a city still trying to find a identity while becoming a big contributor to the country's political, economical success.  With a past to painful they are more focused on the future.

Roberto from Seeing Hands Massage

Later the day I headed south to Granada. If you embark on this trek you will meet travelers along the way who will say Leon or Granada was their favorite. Well I am a Granada girl minus the Seeing Hands Massage from Roberto I received in Leon.

When you pull into Granada, the sleepy vibes stretch over the hot afternoon. With most boats and transports to other destinations like San Juan, and Omtepe- you have the town to yourself.

Hotel Dario in Granada

A walk to Lake Nicaragua was a pleasant time. I passed lovely styles of colonial architecture. Bright colors, open patios, nature-inspired patterns overlapped along the foot-traffic streets only, horses included.

Lakeside in Granada

The city has been known for its food tourism with raved restaurants in the city center. Too expense for my backpacker's budget I joined two girls for a dinner at a comedor in the market district.

La Merced Church Entrance

Not to miss spot to visit in Granada is La Merced church located in central square.  Wiggle your way up to the bell tower to take in a panoramic of the city and lake.

Overall two completely different cities when it comes to Granada and Leon. Leon is a hub for industry and education with great references of history. Granada is a place for a good side project with a creative platform for those already established. 

Courtyard in Granada